Alvin Starkman MA, LL.B.

Introduction

This 2000 km tour guide serves the needs of tourists in Oaxaca who want to take in the sites in central Chiapas, as well as those who wish to take into account at least the visits to the Pacific coastal town of Oaxaca and the Gulf beaches and cultural, in the state of Veracruz ... all without foreclosing a side trip to Puebla. Southern Mexico Central circuit provides travelers with a pleasant and culturally different segments of the guide in the context of a two or three weeks of vacation, with almost no step backward.

For this trip, our first day took us from Oaxaca to Tuxtla Gutiérrez de, then Chiapa de Corzo. After visiting the impressive look at the Parque Nacional Canon Sumidero of the morning, we continued to San Cristobal de las Casas, where we spent two days in town and visit the nearby villages. The next morning we drove to Agua Azul, and then to Palenque, tourism, the ruins the next morning. This afternoon we continued through Tabasco, Veracruz and then, spending our final night at Orizaba. Our stay is concluded with a homecoming of Oaxaca, Puebla on. As a result of time constraints the staff trip lasted only six days. E 'would have easily could be extended by a week or more, which in many other tourist attractions and cities. Consequently, while we saw many of the most famous moments in the space of books, careful consideration of all that is available is highly recommended, particularly for those with time to spare.

For most Motorways of the units have been excellent. We went through 14 toll stations and nine military control in that the latter was arrested, interrogated and required to pop the trunk, once. We experienced, however, a disturbing incident involving state police, in Acayucan, Veracruz, noted as an addendum. Is convinced us deviate from our rule otherwise steadfast against night-time driving.

Distinct from Oaxaca, in Chiapas there is encouraging signs drivers to use the paved, wide, right shoulder, warning that the physical abuse of women met with the jail time is in the fine watch is scattered around ninety times your (daily) wage, and many long stretches of two lanes, there are small home-made signs indicating where the gas is sold (by families, sometimes in plastic containers 10 or 20 liters in the face, such as your notification). In addition, a meeting designed to control and regulate the police, the transport of animals.

Oaxaca to San Cristobal de las Casas

The drive from Oaxaca to San Cristobal takes about 8.5 hours, but it is best done in two segments, with an overnight stay, if you want to visit more than one view of the route.

How do leave for Oaxaca Mitla long drive to Highway 190, filled with gas, as there are long stretches of road without following stations will turn off and head towards the coast. You'll approach that first interchange after close to a half hour to make long straight, essentially flat road. Take the 190 cut-off of Tehuantepec / Matatlán. After about five kilometers of gently rolling hills, you can reach the "world capital of Mezcal, Matatlán, with production facilities and stores peppering the streets for about three kilometers. The smoke is billowing from deep wells to be ready for baking agave, and to a lesser extent stills fed with firewood.

For the next hour and a half you'll be climbing, at times significant slope, then descend into the fertile river valleys, along curvy and well paved yet sometimes repaired road. If he had not filled for the first gas, it just beyond the first military checkpoint, one hour drive to San Pedro Totalapan.

The predominant vegetation --- agave is cultivated occasionally on the steep hill --- brush and mixed with pole cactus and palm trees interspersed. Municipalities are faced with small shops, restaurants, pharmacies, mechanical shops, and even a guest house in about two hours to mark, in San José de Gracia. Around El Camarón a new you encounter a few fábricas de Mezcal.

Your final descent towards the coast starting at about three hours by car, when you finally find yourself speeding up the long straight-aways. Marilù arrived, you will feel six in the tropics, with signs offering fresh fish (mojarra) and cold coconut milk.

You'll then have the option of heading to the coast to Huatulco, or down to Salina Cruz, Tehuantepec and Juchitán.

The new road to Chiapas, along Highway 200, is an exchange that can potentially create a po 'of confusion. At km 240 of the trip, more or less, you encounter a traffic circle with signs that do not help in terms of reaching your destination. Exit which includes the words María Romero, and then seek to ensure that you have the right path. pedestrian traffic and activity, at least at the beginning of 2009, are scarce. You'll be heading towards La Ventosa, so that when you see a sign directing you so you know you're on the right track. At about four hours on the road, 270 km in the vicinity of your days drive, we pass through the toll-La Ventosa, with clean toilets and a gas station nearby. From this point, until he arrived in Tuxtla, you're home free.

For the next 60 km you will be driving across flat plains winding. There is a stretch of 15 km with two sets of large windmills white very unusual and impressive to the eye, the second series with the power generation equipment apparent. There are a couple of long sections of new temporary and Then old and badly pot-holed road to be repaved.

Your arrival in San Pedro Tapanatepec follows along the track crossing mango orchards, with some 'farming. In town you will find a gas station, Banamex, etc. After crossing the next military checkpoint, once you begin your ascent into the mountains, arriving in Chiapas, in about six hours drive.

The approach is to Tuxtla uneventful, marked by continuous periods of ascent and descent, is flat, and navigate through a couple of small towns. Upon arrival you find a round, fairly easy to navigate. You are not required to enter the city but, rather, will be the crossing of a series of fly-over of about 20 minutes. You'll be going above and left the city, then descending to the junction that leads to Chiapa de Corzo. Note that the cut - off is not well marked, so that when you see the option of veering to the right or to the left, turn right.

The two main attractions are located in Tuxtla and / O Chiapa de Corzo is the zoo and the Canon of Sumidero. Both are easily accessible through Chiapa de Corzo, but it might take some 'steps backwards. The advantage of staying in Chiapa de Corzo is that it's distinctive, not You must enter the city of Tuxtla Gutiérrez de, and makes it easy to start a morning tour of the canyon by boat. However, if you want to take the boat trip as opposed driving through the national park, it may take one or two hours in the morning until there are enough tourists to fill up one of the many ships waiting. All depends on the time of year in terms of tourism. We arrived at the dock shortly after the 8 am opening, only to be told that there are likely to wait at least one hour. Therefore hopped back in the car and drove to the lookouts in the Parque Nacional del Canon Sumidero. The site, by boat or car, should not be missed.

The road from Tuxtla to San Cristobal de las Casa is perhaps the highest quality stretch of roadway and more pleasant to navigate on the entire trip. Unfortunately, the unit it only takes about 35 minutes. It starts right after you pass through the toll booth as you leave Chiapa de Corzo. Almost all units is easy to climb curves. You'll get off in San Cristóbal in the last five minutes of the short trip. "Must" of visits, while in the area of San Cristóbal, preferably with a guide, despite the fact that have your vehicle, and includes Zinacantán Chamula.

San Cristobal to Palenque

Although along the fundamentally good, two-lane highways descendant from San Cristobal to Palenque there are several homes and businesses that offer gasoline for sale, and to find Ocosingo gas stations, it is better to fill in as you leave San Cristóbal. Do not worry about your departure time, as with stops en-route will probably be too late to take a tour of the ruins, and in any case it's best to visit the site during the early hours of Sunday morning before the afternoon heat and prevent enjoy your visit at the most. Without pause, the trip takes about 4.5 hours, at about 200 km.

Approximately 11 km drive you will find a cut-off to the left on highway 186 to Ocosingo. Take this, although there is no sign of Palenque and Agua Azul. Despite numerous climbs, descends gradually into the hot jungle environment that characterize the Palenque, a net contrast with the relatively cool climate of San Cristóbal you just left

You will pass through pine forests and timber mills, ranches, quaint local streets and stalls offering local produce for sale. At about 65 km in the day of unity, a "do" is stop in one of two or three points of amber, in an area where the ore is extracted and then worked mainly in silver accented jewelry. If you are in the market for the amber, wait until your arrival here. You probably visited the Amber Museum in San Cristobal, so the time you've reached these workshops have learned to discover the real thing to the glass and plastic imitations. These stalls boast true amber, and the request will be shown in rough pieces, how to identify fakes, and how oil is amber-style fine jewelry.

The method of Ocosingo also have the opportunity to stop at cafes and craft outlets. During the decent troverai grown used as bromiliads impressive garden borders, and to produce change varietals like tropical bananas, coconut palms, sugar cane, and, perhaps surprisingly, still a little 'corn.

Almost Then immediately you start to encounter more switchbacks and peaks and valleys, with yet again a sharp descent into a lush, green forest environment with streams, waterfalls and a park water and an ecotourism site. After the military checkpoint just over 100 km in a car, the descent will be characterized by predominantly straight-aways for close to 40 km we arrive as a cut - off to the left, to Agua Azul, another "must" for your trip. Do not be surprised to discover that you have to pay tolls or two entrances. In the parking lot, there will be asked a boy if he / she can keep your car. We refused. Later we discovered that our car air had disappeared. Give the kid 10 or 20 pesos, both here and in Palenque.

The trip from Palenque to Agua Azul takes about two hours. A few miles by car is going through a stretch of stalls on both sides of the road, selling hand-embroidered skirts, blouses, dresses and shirts. From here, to Palenque, the road descends, with easy curves and long straight-aways, with corn, sugar cane and plantains.

Getting an early start for the day at the ruins. The park gates open at 7:30, with tickets available for the site to buy at 8 am. You can get a guide, while waiting to buy tickets. might want to wait for a group of about eight people to make the most reasonable cost. You'll be given a rate per person, based on eight or ten in the group. In our case, the leadership has decided to take to the person for his rate of eight, with only six of us, presumably in anticipation that it would take a fair po 'di tempo for the other two, preferring to end the tour before the hottest time of the day ... or perhaps in anticipation of being able to fit in another round, if we finished early enough.

Orizaba Palenque to, or other ports of call in Veracruz

If you intend to spend the night or in Córdoba Orizaba, one could want to consider leaving Palenque early the next morning because of driving time involved. Of course, if you intend to head for the city of Veracruz, another plan might be in order. Between Orizaba Palenque and find at least three cut - off leader of Veracruz, and at some point there will be only about 50 km away from the city.

Choose carefully from your accommodation options, if only because to reduce the risk of encountering the problem that beset us ... feel compelled, at dusk, a change our plan regarding where to spend the night, and therefore have little choice but to drive at night, not the best way to enjoy each trip through the Mexico.

Leaving Palenque long 186 will immediately encounter palm and sugar cane cultivation as the cattle on both sides a good, two-lanes with curves flat and straight-aways. After about 25 km, immediately after crossing the first check is to turn left. In 2009, the road has been transformed one lane in each direction to one lane and a half, quite common throughout the south of Mexico. As indicated above, this level of the shoulder is perfectly legal to drive, and indeed the speed of flow of traffic until the drivers are willing to give in to the right. In addition to this construction, the roads for the rest of the way back to Oaxaca, or of Puebla, are excellent.

Within an hour or so the road will be solid four-lane, minimum. It will basically toll road for the rest of the trip. About 125 km of travel on the day you can stay in an impressive Hilton Hotel & Conference Center, easily visible from road. Shortly before the complex you will see a large underpass where a gas station. Approximately 25 kilometers later, as we enter Villahermosa, take Cárdenas cut and continue along Highway 180. You'll be continuing along a road with plantations of bananas, coconuts and sugar cane fields of tropical flowers and familiarity. Consider a brief stop in La Venta, a small town known for its Olmeca ruin. But the site closes at 4 pm, so keep in mind that, if interested in a visit to the site.

After about half an hour, the road curves to start again, and the crop will be less apparent, now with more herds to pasture. You will pass through the plains of the river and on a large suspension bridge. Based on the recommendation of at least a book of travel, we had planned to spend the night in Acayucan, Veracruz, but, as noted above felt compelled to continue to Orizaba, after sunset (see addendum). The saving grace, at least in our minds, was a little 'comfort in passing through four booths for the next 2.5 hours, between Acayucan and our last stop for the night, Orizaba. The cut - off are clearly marked and leaves little room for mistakes. From Acayucan continues along the road marked for one or more of Puebla, Mexico City, Oaxaca, as is well Orizaba, after you actually turning off to Oaxaca.

For those interested in flowers, plants, cacti and succulents, a stop in Fortín de Las Flores, perhaps taking as - an ideal starting point for a deviation of Veracruz. Córdoba is a reasonable option to spend the night near Fortín de Las Flores, and many more hotel options, such as day sights. Orizaba But also a number of interesting options worthy of consideration for a stop and a visit to his office for the tour makes a good point of departure for a brief and pleasant visit to the city before continuing in Oaxaca.

Orizaba in Oaxaca

The unit from Oaxaca Orizaba al / Puebla interchange is very scenic, climbing dramatically for all but the last few minutes. The snow-capped peak of Orizaba is particularly awesome. We move from areas of large, ornamental agave, used as boundary lines of properties. Just follow the signs to Puebla-Mexico for about 30 - 40 minutes, until Finally, when not in Oaxaca to see the cut - off, at what point is to Puebla, or return to Oaxaca.

The home stretch of your journey should take approximately 2 ½ hours, with no other stops for rest and gas up. However, there are few sights worth considering. Unless you want to spend time in Tehuacan, Your first stop will be in onyx / marble village of San Antonio Texcala. Tehuacan Take the second exit (after the Tehuacan toll booth) on highway 125 that leads to Huajuapan. After 6 km you reach the village, with several factory outlets where you can almost anything in onyx and may be a form of tequila Marbel --- set, dishes, basins, lamps, tables, bowls, boxes, unicorns, fish, hash pipes and, of course, a number of different ornaments with religious images. The prices are about half of what you are willing to pay elsewhere.

Next is the Museo de Agua, museum or water, actually a misnomer, because it is much more. Take the signs forthcoming after the return to the road toll for Sangabriel and Chilac. There will also be the signs to the museum. You'll be given a tour (in Spanish) in the main building, and outside of the surrounding countryside. You will learn the progress made to teach villagers in desolate regions where water is scarce and soil fertility is lacking, to conserve and recycle water, use of compost, worm culture and other techniques to enrich the soil and to grow and market produce as nutritious amaranth.

In terms of land use and monuments, near Tehuacan see long narrow white topped buildings where poultry is produced and then trucked throughout the state of Puebla and other neighboring states. There will be a couple of stops defined as lookouts for tourists to stop and to appreciate the cinematography and deep valleys and high mountains. Long, well-marked expansion decks showcase the valleys and mountains. You will pass over a geological fault. There will be several kilometers of impressive pole cactus. Close to the approach you will see in Oaxaca vendors on each side of the street that sell colorful trucks of wood in miniature.

The final toll is many Huitzo. Approximately 15-20 minutes later you approach Oaxaca. A few minutes after entering the city, you'll be given two options to turn left (one of the signs is difficult interpretation), but if you have not been provided with specific instructions to get to your hotel or B & B, and that is in a northern suburb, the better to maintain straight, eventually entering a one way street, which will take you to the center of the area and the Zocalo.

Addendum

We had planned to spend our last night in Acayucan, Veracruz, having noticed three hotels, one of which the aroused our interest because it is found to be the only means-of-the-road option and acceptable, at least for us. Immediately after entering the city, about 6:30 pm, we were pulled by two state troopers and asked to produce some type of adhesive that you knew nothing. The products and license the property without a request in this regard. The more belligerent to the officers, Taurino ramas Santiago (Santiago) would have insisted on the phone a tow truck, and not pull out his cell phone and make a call.

After ten minutes of heating banter, I have wife told me to ask him only "what?" Santiago said he did not want money. This was a shock, because my first hypothesis that was only a matter of how long and how much. E 'Testy become almost as much as we had become.

Out of the Blue, Santiago mood suddenly changed. He asked us about our plans for the night. We indicated that we intended to stay in town. He immediately recalled his hotel and how to get a recommendation. E 'was the same hotel where we had planned to stay. We assured him we would actually present there, who told us that we would had to pay a fine weight 1000 the following day. In the same breath, in a softer tone, he suggested, "but since I am a good boy, and have a good heart, if you like, however you can pay something for me. "

I pulled three fifties and a weight of twenty bills from his pocket and offered him one hundred pesos. Asked Santiago, "I'll take them all." So we light 170 pesos back in the car, hearing Santiago ride strong, direct to your partner, we, and than anyone else on the road ahead by ear.

But I think we had the last laugh. Santiago certainly assume that we were going to stay at his hotel suggested, and indeed we have pushed out in that direction with him and watching his Sidekick. He was probably not called for a tow truck, but the hotel, and know that I would be coming from, and confirmed the amount of his commission for the referral. Otherwise, he probably would have required a higher bribe. Naturally we do not want to stay wherever he suggests. We were concerned that during the night of our assets could be snatched from the car. We decided that it would not be prudent to stay in Acayucan at all, so that high tail out of Dodge, and prompted a further 2 ½ hours during the night, up to the bed in the city of Orizaba.

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